Saving seeds at the end of the gardening season is economical and can ensure access to your favorite plant varieties.

You might ask, “Why would anybody go to the trouble of saving seeds?”

Sometimes, seeds are in short supply, such as they were in spring 2020 when many people decided to try gardening for the first time because of the coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic shutdown.

Or, maybe there is one particular variety that you really like, but you have trouble finding it each year.

Saving seed is easy and you will always have a supply of your favorite flower or vegetable varieties.

So why not experiment? What do you have to lose except a few seeds? And isn’t experimenting with different plants (or seeds) a part of gardening?

It is important to know that not all vegetable varieties are suitable for seed saving. If the variety you want to save is a hybrid, seeds from that plant will not produce genetically true fruits. Most likely, the plant will produce a fruit that resembles one of the plants used to create that hybrid.

To avoid this, choose heirloom varieties, ones that have been around since grandma’s time or earlier. These include varieties such as Brandywine or Amish Paste tomatoes (both were developed in Pennsylvania), Kentucky Wonder or Blue Lake green beans (both date back to the mid-1800’s), Green Arrow peas, and Danvers Half-Long carrots.

Heirlooms will produce offspring that are identical to the parent.

To harvest seeds, wait until the fruit is ripe and the seeds are mature. Tomatoes are easy. Everyone knows when they are ripe. But fruits of some vegetables are enjoyed before they are fully ripe.

For example, we eat cucumbers when they are green. To harvest seeds, let them turn yellow.

Most peppers tend to turn red when they are fully ripe.

Be selective about which fruit you use to save seed. It will be tempting to eat that big, juicy tomato, but that is the best candidate for seed saving.

The jalapeno plant that keeps producing no matter how many peppers you pick is another prime candidate. Save seeds from only the best plants or fruits.

For dry fruiting plants, such as peas and beans, preparing the seeds for saving is simply a matter of separating the seed from the fruit and letting them dry.

Allow the pods to dry on the plants until they turn yellow and rattle. Open the pods and allow the seeds to dry before storing them.

Some people, when they start saving seeds, spread the seeds on sheets of folded newspaper. However, some seeds can be lost to mold because moisture can be retained by the newspaper under the seed.

It is best to dry your seeds on small frames with nylon mesh screen. The screen allows air to circulate freely around the seeds. Let the seeds sit in a cool, dry area for about one week before storing.

For lettuce, herbs and flowers, allow the seedhead to turn brown and dry before harvesting. When dry, use a pair of scissors to carefully remove the dried flower head or pods. Cut several stalks and tie them together. Place them upside down in a paper bag in a dry location for several days. As the seedheads dry, the seeds will drop to the bottom of the bag.

You can collect seeds from certain perennial flowers such as cosmos, coreopsis, sunflowers, purple coneflower, yarrow and poppy. However, most perennials that grow in your garden are cultivated varieties. In order to get a true “duplicate” of the plant, you have to divide the plant or take a cutting.

What is referred to as “wet seeds” requires slightly more work. Fruit such as tomatoes and cucumbers have wet seeds. Wet seeds become less viable and can quickly rot.

To save tomato seeds, collect fruit when slightly over-ripe but not rotting. Fully ripe disease-free tomatoes are the best candidates for seed saving. Cut the tomato in half and scoop out the seeds. Remove the fleshy tissue and place pulpy seeds in a bowl of water and allow to set at room temperature for one day.

The “good” seeds sink to the bottom and the “non-productive” seeds and pulp float to the top and can be skimmed off.

Or you can try to save the seed by squeezing them out onto a paper napkin and then air-drying them.

Fermentation is a better route. To ferment, squeeze the seeds and any surrounding gel or pulp from very ripe fruits into a jar with enough water to cover the seeds. Swish the seeds and water around for a minute or two, then place the jar in a cool location to settle.

Continue to shake the jar a few times a day for three to four days. After three to four days, strain the solution through a fine mesh, leaving the seeds. Rinse to wash away any remaining gel. “Wet seeds” should then dry for at least one week.

It is important to collect seeds at the right time for the best results. A good time is usually after the peak vegetable and flower season. It is best to collect seeds from healthy plants on a dry, sunny day.

When plants have seedheads, it is important to collect them after they have dried. If the seeds are not mature and dry, the embryo inside the seeds will not be fully formed and cannot finish development when removed from the plant. Therefore, the seeds will not be productive when planted.

Stored seeds continue to carry on their life processes even while dormant, though at a very low rate. They need to be protected from moisture, heat and insects. Sealed, moisture-proof containers are the best place to keep seeds but only if the seeds are thoroughly dry before being put in the containers. The only exception is peas and beans which are best stored in rolled up bags rather than airtight containers.

Next spring before planting, test your saved seeds for germination by placing a few between two wet paper towels. Roll up the towels and place them in a plastic bag to prevent drying and store in a warm place. After several days, it is important to check to see if the seeds germinated.

“Growing Green” is contributed by Lehigh County Extension Office Staff and Master Gardeners. Information: Lehigh County Extension Office, 610-391-9840; Northampton County Extension Office, 610-813-6613.