Few tasks are more rewarding than growing your own plants from seeds.

If you haven’t done this and find it intimidating, there are guidelines to simplify the process.

When buying seeds from catalogs, choose seed companies in the Northeast. They provide varieties adapted to the Lehigh Valley region. Companies based elsewhere may offer plant materials best-suited to other regions of North America.

The best catalogs include details such as the botanical name of the plant, its color, preference for sun or shade, its water requirements, and the mature height and spread of the plant.

Another important piece of information is the cold-hardiness zone for the plant.

The catalog may state that the plant is new or improved, which means the variety has changed, hopefully for the better.

You may have been attracted to the plant because of a lovely photograph. Remember that this depicts the mature plant at its best.

Don’t forget to grow flowers in your vegetable garden to encourage pollinators. Many annual flowers, such as marigolds and zinnias, are very easy to grow from seeds. These are great for beginners.

For a modest-sized garden, choose the vegetables and varieties that your family enjoys most. One packet of seeds of each variety should be plenty. As a general rule, one packet will be enough for a 10- to 30-foot row.

Plan to start your seeds indoors so the plants are at the correct stage of development to move outside after the last frost. It is often best to wait another week before planting if the weatherman predicts frost at that time.

Follow the instructions on the seed packet and use a calendar to figure out the sowing dates. For example, the instructions on a tomato seed packet might be: “Start seeds indoors 4-8 weeks prior to the last frost of spring.”

Always read the directions on the seed packet, because targer seeds, such as beans and corn, do best if you sow them directly into the garden. Write the sowing date on each seed packet and group together with other packets having the same sowing time.

You will need containers with holes for drainage and trays to catch excess water. Styrofoam cups, plastic tubs, and old plastic cell packs are suitable.

You can purchase a seed starting kit that includes a tray of cells and a humidity dome, but it’s not necessary to spend the money.

Most important, your containers must be properly sterilized before using them. Wash them in soapy water and then rise with a solution of one-part chlorine bleach and 10 parts water. Dry thoroughly before adding the growing mix.

Purchase a commercially-prepared mix specially made for seed-starting. The medium should be sterile, loose, well-drained and of fine texture. Also, buy vermiculite to cover the seeds as this encourages seed germination.

Now we’re ready to plant the seeds.

Moisten the seed-starting mix and fill the container to within 3/4-inch from the top. Remember to make sure the container has adequate drainage. Use a clean, small board to level and firm the mix. Do not press too hard.

Make shallow rows about one- to two-inches apart with a narrow board. Sow seeds uniformly and thinly in the rows. Label the rows immediately, especially when you plant different seeds in one flat. If you are sowing only one type of seed, you may scatter them over the surface.

Cover the seeds with vermiculite to a depth of about two times their diameter, leaving very fine seeds uncovered. Moisten the surface with a fine mist or place the container in a pan of warm water.

Cover the container with a plastic film or a plastic bag. No additional watering will be needed until after germination.

Place the tray in a warm place, not in direct sunlight, with a temperature of 65-75 degrees. You can use a heated seed-starting mat.

Once the seedlings emerge, remove the plastic film and place the container in a bright, south-facing window or under a fixture equipped with two white fluorescent tubes. Leave the seedlings under the lights for 14-16 hours each day. Do not overwater. Allow drying between watering, being careful the seedlings don’t wilt.

If you need to thin your seedlings, nip some off at the soil line with scissors. If necessary, transplant overcrowded seedlings to individual pots after they have at least one set of true leaves. Grasp the seedlings by the leaf to avoid damage to the stem.

Gradually introduce your seedlings to the garden after threat of frost. Place them in dappled shade for about five days before moving them into a sunny location, gradually increasing the length of exposure for another five days.

When your plants are large enough for easy handling and hardening-off is complete, the time has come to plant them in the garden. To reduce the shock of transplanting, select a cloudy day for the task.

Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant. Carefully remove the plant, retaining as much soil as possible, and set it in the hole at the same level that it was growing in the flat. Place soil loosely around the roots and fertilizer with a weak solution of fish emulsion.

“Growing Green” is contributed by Lehigh County Extension Office Staff and Master Gardeners. Information: Lehigh County Extension Office, 610-391-9840; Northampton County Extension Office, 610-813-6613.