Despite what many people think, African violets are very easy to care for. The plants can tell you what they need if you watch for their signs.

Bright green foliage, but no flowers, is an indication that the plant needs more light. On the other hand, if the foliage is pale green and yellowing, and you know that you have been fertilizing and watering properly, this is a sign that the plant is receiving too much light.

East-facing windows with a sheer curtain in place are good for year- round growing. South or west facing windows have too much light in summer. Provide some light-filtering shade for plants grown in these windows or move them back away from the windows so that they will not receive full sun. North windows usually provide adequate light in summer, but not in the shorter days of winter.

African violets appreciate an environment that is humid. During the winter months when the air is dryer in our homes, these plants appreciate being put on a humidity tray.

These are simple to make. Any type of pan, saucer or tray will work. Fill the bottom of the saucer with small pebbles. Pea gravel or something like it works well. Then put some water in the saucer. You don't want to completely submerge the pebbles. Set the potted African violet on top of the pebbles.

If you have put too much water in the saucer, the soil in the pot will stay too wet and it will cause root rot, which will kill the plant. As the water evaporates from the saucer, it will create a mini humid environment around the plant. Your African violet will appreciate this extra humidity.

There are many different manufacturers of African violet fertilizers. Each has its own instructions on how much to use and how often to use it.

Watering African violets has always been a controversial subject. Some experts recommend only bottom watering. Some recommend watering from the top. Be careful not to get the foliage or the crown (the center of the plant) wet. Don't put the plant back in the window in direct sunlight because sunlight will burn the wet leaves. Let the plant dry completely before returning it to the windowsill.

It is best to grow African violets in a lightweight potting mix. There are mixes available specifically for growing African violets. Seed starting mix is also a good alternative. Many potting mixes also have built-in fertilizer, which help to get your transplant off to a good start.

You can easily propagate new plants from the one(s) that you already have. First remove a leaf from your African violet. Taking an older leaf from the outer area of the plant is usually best. Cut the stem on an angle.

The next step helps to encourage roots to grow, but you can successfully root cuttings without it; it just takes longer. Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone powder. These are available at most garden centers.

Next, insert the stem into pre-moistened peat moss or a lightweight potting mix. Use a pencil to make a pilot hole, then insert the stem and firm the soil around it. Place a plastic bag over the top of the pot. This will create a mini-greenhouse.

Do not close the bag tight around the pot, which can cause the cutting to rot. Allow some air to flow through. Keep the cutting out of direct sunlight. A discarded aquarium is perfect for starting new plants. Put a two-inch layer of pea gravel on the bottom, followed by a thin layer of horticulture charcoal and then the pre-moistened potting mix.

In a 10-gallon aquarium, it is possible to start 12 to 15 new plants. It is not necessary to cover the top to keep in the humidity; doing so often will rot the leaf stems.

Leaf cuttings vary greatly in the time that it takes for them to root. It can vary from a few weeks to several months. After about six weeks, you can do the tug test to see if the cutting has rooted. Very gently tug on the leaf. If it gives way easily, it needs more time to set roots. If it doesn't give way, you know that you are on your way to having new plants.

It may take several more weeks before you start seeing new leaves emerge at the base of the leaf stem. When you do finally see new growth taking place, let the plant continue to grow until it is large enough to transplant.

Often, you will see there is more than one plant. When the plantlets are large enough to handle, separate them carefully and transplant them into three-inch pots. Using a very weak solution of fertilizer, water the newly-transplanted plantlets.

As with all plants, there are the usual pests that will show up once in a while. Thrips, mealybugs, and aphids are the usual culprits. These are controlled and killed by using a registered houseplant insecticide. Make sure that the one that you have chosen lists the insect that you are trying to get rid of. Make sure to check all of your houseplants and isolate infected ones until you are positive that they are pest-free before moving them back to their original location.

For answers to your garden questions, call the Lehigh County Cooperative Extension Office, 610-391-9840, or Northampton County Cooperative Extension Office, 610-746-1970, and ask to speak with a Master Gardener. Volunteers staff phone lines several days a week, Monday - Friday.

Growing Green is contributed by Lehigh County Cooperative Extension Office Staff and Master Gardeners.